On a recent trip to the Amalfi Coast, my husband and I decided to spend a day in Naples, Italy. We had been through Naples several times, usually via the train station or airport, on our way to Pompei, Sorrento, Positano or flying out of Italy.
Personally, I had never had a good experience going through Naples, as the train station and airport are in bad parts of town. But, our key motivators for spending time in Naples were to 1) try authentic Napoli pizza and 2) to tour the National Archaelogical Museum (where many of the Pompei relics are displayed).
We took a taxi from Positano to the Albergo Palazzo Decumani Hotel in historic downtown Naples. We could have taken the bus from Positano to Sorrento, then the train to Sorrento to Naples and finally a taxi to our hotel.
While the hotel was a bit difficult to find, it was a very nice hotel located near all the sites we wanted to visit. Our room was large, had a great bathroom/shower and comfortable bed.
The hotel manager provided us with a map and made great suggestions on where and what to eat. We were able to walk throughout the historic district and visit all of sites on our list.
First stop was Giovanni Scaturchio for coffee and traditional Neapolitian desserts. Giovanni Scaturchio, located in the Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, has outdoor seating and serves the traditional desserts: Sfogliatella and Baba. Sfogliatella Riccia is a pastry with ricotta cheese and candied fruit. We loved it! Baba is a rum sponge cake. We liked it, but probably would not order it again.
After an early afternoon snack, we set about to see the key sites of historic Naples.
The Museo Capella Sansevero was the highlight of our Naples visit. The chapel houses about 30 pieces of art, mostly sculptures. The most famous of sculptures is the Veiled Christ which is surrounded by sculptures of the Virtues. Be sure to visit the Underground Chamber which houses the anatomical models of a male and pregnant female with their skeletons, arteries and veins. This museum is a “must see.”
Our next stop was the Capella del Tesoro di San Gennaro (the royal chapel of the treasure dedicated to the patron saint of the city).
Then we walked on to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale. This is where a large collection of artifacts from Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Stabiae are on display. If you’ve been to Pompeii, then this museum is a must. We saw the extensive mosaic collection from the ruins at Pompeii, many sculptures and even the Secret Cabinet (Room) that has an extensive collection of erotic and sexual items.
For dinner, we wanted to eat authentic Napoli pizza … thin crust, wood-fired ovens, fresh ingredients. The hotel manager recommended we eat at one of three restaurants. His recommendations just so happened to be the same ones my husband had researched. And, they were all along the same street, so we could walk by each to easily see which one we wanted to try.
- Di Matteo (Via Trabunal, 94)
- Decumani
- Sorbillo (Via Tribunal, 38)
We ended up eating at Di Matteo. We had two pizzas, a Diet Coke and a beer for 19 euros. They were pretty darn good pizzas! As we were leaving the restaurant, I noticed that they also served ricotta-stuffed fried zucchini blossoms. I almost convinced my husband to go back and order zucchini blossoms. Instead, we walked around a bit then ended up at the Piazza San Domenico Maggiore and stopped for gelato. It was our last evening in Italy, so one last gelato.